There is a high risk of rip current development Monday, according to a Rip Current Statement issued by the National Weather Service Monday morning.
The waves churned up near the shoreline due to a coastal low pressure system that passed just offshore Sunday are being groomed by an gusty offshore wind following the overnight frontal passage, resulting in large breakers and strong currents.
Waves, which are running four to six feet high, are breaking hard on sandbars Monday morning.
Winds and seas are expected to diminish later Monday as high pressure builds in, according to the National Weather Service.
“A high risk of rip currents implies that wind and/or wave conditions will support the development of very strong rip currents. These rip currents will be life threatening to anyone who enters the surf,” the bulletin advises.
Rip currents are powerful channels of water flowing quickly away from the shore, often occurring in low spots or breaks in the sandbar and in the vicinity of structures such as groins, jetties, and piers.