‘Pepper pot soup slam’: 3 chefs reimagine one of the first American street foods

Pepper pot soup was known as a survival meal during the American Revolutionary War, but the stew's African and Caribbean roots are often overlooked.

WHYY asked 3 chefs to create their best pepper pot soup recipe and recorded the reactions. From left: Chef Shola Olunloyo, owner of Studio Kitchen; Chef Angie Brown; Chef Omar Tate, co-owner at Honeysuckle. (Kimberly Paynter/WHYY)

‘Pepper pot soup slam’: 3 chefs reimagine one of the first American street foods

Pepper pot soup was known as a survival meal during the American Revolutionary War, but the stew's African and Caribbean roots are often overlooked.

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Philadelphia pepper pot soup was one of the first American street foods. It has an amazing origin story, but for a long time part of that story has been skimmed over. We’ve heard about pepper pot soup feeding George Washington and his American troops over the harsh winter of 1777 in Valley Forge, an apocryphal tale, during the Revolutionary War. We’ve seen the pepper pot soup label on Campbell’s soup cans, and even in Andy Warhol’s art. But the African and Caribbean roots of the dish have been frequently overlooked.

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Reporter Justin Kramon tells us that story, and takes us to a special culinary event, a “pepper pot soup slam” where the iconic American dish gets reimagined by three of Philadelphia’s premier chefs: Omar Tate, Angie Brown, and Shola Olunloyo.

Chef Shola Olunloyo, owner of Studio Kitchen, prepares his pepper soup for tasting. (Kimberly Paynter/WHYY)
Pepper soup made by Philadelphia chef Shola Olunloyo. (Kimberly Paynter/WHYY)

In this story, Michael W. Twitty, author of The Cooking Gene, which won the James Beard Foundation Book Award, shares the history of pepper pot soup and how it was brought to America through the Caribbean and South America during the trans-Atlantic slave trade and how it has transformed along the way. 

Chef Omar Tate, co-owner at Honeysuckle, compiles his pepper pot soup for tasting in the home of chef Shola Olunloyo. (Kimberly Paynter/WHYY)
Chef Omar Tate’s pepper pot soup. (Kimberly Paynter/WHYY)

Then, it’s time to eat. Philadelphia Inquirer restaurant critic Craig Laban, food historian William Woys Weaver, whose forthcoming book Pepperpot City explores the food history of Philadelphia, and Host of The Pulse Maiken Scott sit down with the chefs to taste their creations. 

Chef Angie Brown (left) and The Pulse Host and Executive Producer Maiken Scott (right) taste the pepper pot soup recipe by Deux Cheminées owner and chef Fritz Blank. (Kimberly Paynter/WHYY)
Chef Omar Tate and guests share their reactions to different versions of pepper pot soup. (Kimberly Paynter/WHYY)

Thanks also to Tonya Hopkins and Jessica Harris for background information, and to Tonya Hopkins’ earlier story about pepper pot soup.

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