FitFitBanner Images

Kitchen Wisdom Kitchen Wisdom



Testing Radically Simple

February 7th, 2012 - By Lari Robling




Share on Tumblr

When my son and I have a few hours with our schedules in sync we like cook together. Admittedly, this is not without its potential for some friction – he works in some of the best restaurants in Philadelphia (duck fat is just a walk-in refrigerator away and there’s someone else to wash the dishes) and I am the champion of the home cook (I hope I have more butter in the freezer and can I do this in one bowl).

Rozanne Gold’s newest cookbook, Radically Simple, gives us safe territory to navigate the gap between the professional and a home cook. Subtitled Brilliant Flavors with Breathtaking Ease these 325 recipes blend simplicity of preparation with extraordinary ingredient combinations to yield sophisticated dishes.

Full disclosure, I’ve known Rozanne ever since I interviewed her in the late nineties for Philadelphia’s The Book and The Cook. She was well into her now eleven books and signature three-ingredient recipes. Not to mention that as a consultant she’s had an influence on the menus of acclaimed restaurants around the world. Generous of spirit as well, she’s always had time for this food journalist, so that made trying a recipe from her latest book all the more likely to be a good time.

While Radically Simple departs from the three-ingredient rule, it by no means leaves the fundamental philosophy behind. These are recipes that are composed like music – each ingredient is a flavor note creating a harmonious structure. So, as my son and I read the recipe for Golden Robe Salmon with Snow Peas and Red Cabbage we exclaimed in unison, “turmeric AND rosemary WITH miso?”

But, it didn’t take long for us to discover the genius of the results. This recipe comes together faster than the pizza delivery guy can get to the door. And the cooking technique of broiling the fish followed by oven heat achieves the restaurant result of a pan sear then roasting to finish. (The textural contrast made the restaurant guy very happy.)

The really remarkable thing about this recipe is, despite our skepticism, the miso gives the dish that unctuous umami richness, but the bitterness of the turmeric and the savory rosemary add balance. The result is a very sophisticated dish good enough for special company, but easy enough for a weeknight meal.

Miso, if you’ve never tried it, is a fermented soybean paste. The white is sweeter although I find I can interchange it with the yellow. The red is stronger and used in heavier dishes. I’ll often use white or yellow miso in place of butter on corn on the cob in the summer and it works well in salad dressings. Just be aware that while it has some great nutritional attributes, it is high in sodium.

Rozanne provided the Golden Robe Salmon for you to try. You can find her food insights and trends on Rozanne’s blog and Huffington Post. Starting in May Cooking Light magazine will feature a monthly Radically Simple column.

Comments are closed.

Photo by Flicker user Yolise / CC BY-NC 2.0



About Lari Robling
Lari Robling's food career had its early beginnings as a home ec teacher for the visually impaired. Later, she decided to become a food professional and worked for caterers and restaurants. Lari landed her first job in a test kitchen for a small health food publication, Delicious! magazine. From there, she began a freelance career as a food stylist and food consultant. She is also the author of Endangered Recipes: Too Good to Be Forgotten.



MOST RECENT WEBCHAT:
Watch the replay!


WEBCHAT: Is the Glass Half Full or Empty?

How many soft drinks are too many for kids? Join Chef Ann Cooper as we chat about sugary beverages in schools.

More webchats »




October 2014
M T W T F S S
« Jun    
 12345
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
2728293031  


Philly Food Bucks!
Philly Food Bucks are coupons that help ACCESS/food stamp customers save money on fruits and vegetables. Philly Food Bucks can be redeemed for $2 worth of fruits and vegetables for every $5 spent in ACCESS/food stamps at a participating farmers' market. Learn more about Philly Food Bucks at the Philadelphia Department of Public Health's recently expanded web site Food Fit Philly.com. Now also accepted at the West Oak Lane Weaver's Way Food Coop.




Get Healthy Philly is part of the Communities Putting Prevention to Work Initiative, a federal effort to: prevent and delay chronic disease, reduce risk factors, promote wellness in children and adults, and provide positive sustainable health change in our communities.


Food Fit Philly is part of Get Healthy Philly, a program that works to reduce and prevent obesity and related chronic diseases (like heart disease and diabetes) by increasing access to healthy foods that people can afford.


Your body needs help when it's time to quit. SmokeFree Philly is a program of the Philadelphia Department of Public Health that offers support and tools to help smokers quit. The goal of SmokeFree Philly is to: help people to quit smoking, stop people from starting to use tobacco, and reduce heart disease, cancer and other illnesses caused by smoking.



Got a question for Fit? Want to submit your own "fit and fresh" recipe? Have a good story idea for us?


Contact us at fit@whyy.org